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Spine/F.L.O. Info


SPINING AND 'F.L.O.'-ING MAKES A HUUUGE DIFFERENCE ON INCREASING YOUR DISTANCE AND LESSENING DISPERSION PATTERNS- IT WILL CHANGE YOUR GAME FOREVER- NO MATTER WHAT LEVEL YOU ARE AT!!!!   After youve seen and felt the difference between a STABLE and UNSTABLE shaft and you will NEVER play an unspined/F.L.O.'ed shaft again!!   Tour players have been doing it since Ben Hogan!   The concept is simple and 100% effective- also it is NOT Pure-ing- Spining & FLO'ing is MUCH more effective. Puring sets the spine 90* from the target, and worse, DOESNT create a STABLE shaft!
Spining works as follows: EVERY shaft has a spine in it whether its steel or graphite shaft. Steel shafts have it due to the inner weld that runs the length of the shaft and graphite because of the 6 layers of sheet rolled material where some of the seams line up forming multiple spines(20 micro-layers on Aldilla)- you cant SEE it but on a spining tool you can FEEL it and its HUGE- the shaft will want to JUMP out of your hands on steel its so pronounced- EVEN on Project X and Rifle (ill be releasing video soon)- that hard spine wants to release with all of its power in whatever direction its installed on the head..
NOW, heres the scam by the golf industry- NONE of the manufacturers care the slightest about installing the shaft properly and they gleefully admit it! The churn them out by the thousands- throw the shaft bands or labels on and that’s out the door- they dont care about you having a great set because its already sold to the middleman before you are ever in the picture! With 1 exception, unless youve had a shaft spined in a custom shop it has not been done- only KZG will spine a club before sending it out the door!    This is how the major companies keep you coming back every season for the newest gear... if they spined and Flat line Oscillated the shafts you’de be so happy with your set you’de NEVER get rid of it!... BAD for their business!!
So, Step 2- Flat Line Oscillation: The bottom line is spining isnt enough- the whole point is to get a stable shaft that fires ONLY in 1 DIRECTION- TOWARDS the TARGET with the HARD SPINE LEADING THE WAY!! This is done thru F.L.O.ing- A 205g. weight is attached to the spined shaft and it goes in a special clamp which enables the shaft to oscillate freely- this step EXPOSES HOW UNSTABLE SHAFTS ARE- BOTH Steel and Graphite- Graphite is actually worse because of the multiple spines- We identify the MAIN spine and then rotate the shaft until the circular oscillation GOES AWAY and FLAT LINES in 1 DIRECTION!  

What this means to your golf shot is: Before, when your shaft was unstable you had no idea where that shaft would fire- one time maybe into your feet; then into the air on the next shot because the UNSTABLE circular oscillation of the shaft is TOTALLY UNPREDICTABLE- AND ITS IN YOUR SWING NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO!! - You could be Iron Byron the robot and NEVER hit 2 identical shots in a row!!   And the worst part is that  IT DOESNT MATTER HOW EXPENSIVE THE SHAFT IS THAT YOU BOUGHT!!!!!!!!   You could be playing with a 1200$ shaft and it can perform WORSE than a 20$ spined and FLO'ed shaft- weve SEEN it OVER and OVER WITH NO VARIATION- EVER!!
Step 3 - Orient the shaft properly- Once the shaft is STABLE it is installed with that narrow line and hard spine FACING the TARGET... now every time you swing you KNOW what the performance will be- the shaft is now like a tree branch that has been pulled back and WANTS TO RELEASE WITH ALL OF ITS POWER & ONLY TOWARDS THE TARGET!!!!   YOU WILL INSTANTLY SEE GAINS IN YARDAGE AND DRAMATIC LESSENING OF ERRATIC SHOTS- MUCH TIGHTER DISPERSION!!! Also the clubs FEEL GREAT when you hit!!! We Typically see an avg of 5-8 yards distance gain in irons and between 10-25 yards in woods- this is CONSERVATIVE - we often see MORE!!   Im 5'9" and have a bad back- with my 10.5 tour burner TP stock shaft,   I gained about 55 yards- and STRAIGHT!!!

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